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The core is made from EPS (expanded polystyrene) foam. A percentage of the foam I use is made from recycled EPS and all EPS can be recycled.
The top and bottom skins of the board are made from 1.5mm structural veneers reinforced and bonded to the EPS foam core with glass cloth and epoxy.
The rails of the board are made from laminating hard woods together, this provide a very strong parabolic rail. The wood I typically use is locally grown Cornish ash and chestnut.
Nose and tail blocks
The nose and tail of any surf board are vulnerable areas, so I use a dark hard wood such as Iroko, to provide the ding exceptional resistance needed in these areas.
I install a vent into all of my boards constructed with an EPS blank, this is to equalize any pressure build up that can occur within the board, most manufacturers don't install this as standard, even though the problem can occur with any board that is constructed using an EPS blank. Typically gas pressure differences occurs within the blank if the board is left in a hot or very cold environment or transported by air. The GORE vent that is installed is maintenance free and is fully guaranteed, and just simply needs to be replaced every 2 years by unscrewing the old one and screwing in a new one.
The board is constructed in such a way that it is strong enough without having to be glassed. A conventional surfboard relies on a glass fiber shell to provide the strength and ding resistance it needs. The combination of woods used in the construction of my boards, means that it doesn't need to be glassed, and is simply treated with multiple coats of a very durable oil based varnish that penetrates the wood giving an extremely durable finish.
There is very little maintenance of the board. Dings and scratches should be kept in check, scratches covered with a touch of varnish and more substantial dings repaired with glass and resin.
The board doesn't need to be re-coated with varnish for years, but if there are many scratches and scrapes its fine to re-varnish the whole board.
The varnish I use is a one called 'le tonkinois', which is super durable easy to use and produces a fine rich finish.
The weight of each board obviously depends on the boards size, the boards generally are surprisingly light and are pretty much the same weight as a regular polyurethane/polyester resin surfboard. You can expect a typical 6'4" to weigh 3.5kg.
Dings can happen with any board and I have written a comprehensive 'ding doctor' section to cover this topic.
Glass Tiger strives to maintain a grass roots, practical and sensible approach when tackling environmental issues. One of the key objectives is to make a product that will last, and can be maintained. My boards are designed to lasts 2 or 3 times as long as a 'regular' surfboard, which in itself is cost effective and an environmental saving. The wood I use, I buy from local timber merchants that are supplied by sustainability managed forests, and if possible the wood is locally grown, for instance the rails of my boards are typically made from Cornish hard woods. Because the board doesn't need to be glassed, this significantly reduces the amount of chemicals and man-made products involved in the process of making each board. I constantly review the materials I use, so that they are of the highest quality and have the least amount of environmental impact.
My promise to you
I make boards because I'm passionate about it and I believe the boards I make are unique, well crafted and built to last. Every element of the board is carefully considered, and nothing leaves my workshop until I'm totally satisfied with it.